Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
